Flying From China With A Bicycle

Posted on November 7, 2011 by Robert Beal

While on my trip to Australia, I was lucky enough to be able to base myself in Shenzhen (Shekou to be exact, on the mainland near Hong Kong). Having cycled from Shanghai to Kunming (skipping a few bits in the east) I took a bus back to Yangshuo, and then from Yangshuo back to Shenzhen. My original plans were to fly from Kunming to Calcutta, but while crossing China my brother invited me to spend Christmas with him in Hanoi. I accepted his offer but it meant I wouldn’t have enough time to fit India in before Christmas. Instead I decided to reverse my schedule and go to Thailand/Malaysia first, then go to Vietnam for Christmas, then fly to India before finally ending up in Australia.

Bicycles & Airports

They have never mixed very well. The problems start even before you get to the airport. The arduous task of getting to and from an airport can be a real pain, as most airports are surrounded by fast highways and public transport systems that won’t allow bicycles on board. You either box up your bicycle and lug around 30+kg of weight via public transport (which is no fun task in hot, humid Asia), or try cycling to the airport. The latter not only being difficult to do but once you get there you then face the dilemma of whether the check-in staff will accept your un-boxed bike.

The Easy Way Out Of China

Yet, despite all the above issues, there is an easy way for a cyclist to get themselves and their beloved bicycle out of China. Given the toils I’ve experienced getting to/from Istanbul Ataturk, Tokyo Narita and Shanghai Pudong airports, to say the journey to Hong Kong International was a heavenly experience would be an understatement.

Shekou Ferry Port

I was staying in Shekou in Shenzhen (there are plenty of £10 a night hotels dotted around). From Shekou I cycled 2km through a modern, rich suburb, stopping along the way at Starbucks for a coffee, before finally reaching Shekou Ferry port. From there I took a ferry to Hong Kong airport for 260RMB (£26). Note, it’s not the only ferry port that you can take to the airport, there are others dotted around the mainland, although costs may vary. There were a few stairs to carry my loaded bike up but nothing too strenuous before I wheeled my bike onto the ferry. It then took around 35 minutes to reach Hong Kong airport.

Hong Kong Airport Ferry Terminal

By taking the ferry you don’t officially enter Hong Kong. You are taken directly to the airport which is “international” territory. Because of this they take you to a separate check-in area, effectively putting you in international limbo. It’s done this way because if you were taken to the standard check-in area you could walk out of the airport without having a Hong Kong visa!

This has a number of benefits. No immigration queues to enter Hong Kong just to get to the airport (which on past experience take ages). You also have a check-in area that only other ferry passengers can use, so the queues are minimal if non-existent.

I wheeled my bike off the ferry, then spent 15 minutes preparing it for check-in. This involved taking off the pedals, lowering the seat post, turning the handlebars, removing the rear mech and zip tying it to the frame (I didn’t bother doing this the second time around, and prefer not to in general now), and then finally wrapping cling film (I bought a 60m spindle in China for £1.50) around parts of my bike!

I walked over to the check-in desk. There was no queue at all. I was checked in within a few minutes and someone came to take my bicycle away. They had no qualms in taking my bicycle un-boxed. The desk (and most of the other 30-ish desks) didn’t appear to be an official airline one (I flew Sri Lanka Airlines), but rather a desk that represents the airline. In my case the desk represented around four other airlines, so they probably don’t know the exact rules around bicycles. Something worth keeping in mind. I then walked through airport security (again a separate one for ferry passengers). There was no queue, not even a single person (apart from the security guards). A mono-rail then took me too the departure gate. The whole process took no more than 20 minutes, and my total journey time, door to departure gate was around 1.5 hours.

I was also reimbursed $120HK transfer tax for some reason, effectively reducing my ferry ticket cost to £14, giving me some spending money for in the airport. I’m now sat in Hong Kong airport sipping on a coffee while using the free wireless the airport provides (and it’s fast!). A first class experience for an economy price. And now to focus on my next dilemma…. I’m flying to the currently flooded city of Bangkok!

Gdog

So you wont be here for New Years buddy? Thats a shame! Glad you are enjoying yourself again though!

http://robertbeal.com Rob

Yeah sorry mate. Oz would have been awesome for Xmas, but would have meant not completing a lot of distance. I use Xmas as a break and a chance to see my brother before moving onto India.

Gheko It

Did you cycle from Shanghai to Kunmin? how long does it takes? is it worthy? i mean good landscape?

http://robertbeal.com Rob

You need about a month and a half, maybe a little more. I wouldn’t recommend the east coast from Shanghai to Shenzhen. It’s very built up and not very pleasant. Through the middle of China might be nicer although I’ve not been there. Once you’re away from Guangzhou and into Guanxi province, it’s much nicer. Anything west from there is good touring.

Gheko It

Actually i have 16 days More or less. i’m keen to go in the south, in sixteen days i need to give some priorities:
Or Kunmin Shangri-la al way long biking with lakes tour
or Yanshou Kunmin all way long (how many days for this??)

Or Kunmin get Bus to Shangri-la come back biking (lakes) get bus to save 400km and bike again till yanshou.

any suggestion? i like the nature, and real chinese culture. ahh!! the trips will be on the 7th so i’m on the dead line.

http://robertbeal.com Rob

Yangshou you can cycle around for a good 2-3 days as it is. It’s excellent for cycling there. I’d recommend the Showbiz hostel. Stay there a few nights and cycle the area.

Then one day up to Guilin. One day up to Longsheng (it’s a hard day, loads of hills). You can see the rice plains there. To get to Kunming from Yangshuo I reckon you’ll need around 9 or 10 days if you’re doing about 80km a day.

From memory it took me about that. I went up to Guiyang as I was going to stop there, but in the end pushed on to Kunming.

The Shangri-La cycling would be amazing. I didn’t tour there, but have been there and rented a bike. The altitude will take a few days to adjust to. I remember being a little dizzy cycling without any load.
http://robertbeal.com Rob

And if you fly out from Hong Kong, you can easily get night buses from Guilin or possibly Kunming (it might be a bit far). They’ll happily put your bike under the bus, usually for a fee. I never paid over £30 for myself and bike on the bus.

You want to go to Futian Bus station in Shenzhen. From there it’s a 20km (I think) cycle along the coast to the ferry port.

Gheko It

Rob thanks for the advices, everything is getting more clear
actually my plan will be more or less: budget 4000 RmB include bike
(i live in Shanghai)
i’ll fly to Hong-kong, To Hong kong i have to buy i touring bike ( i think i giant) the question is: all way long from guiling to kunmin, or all way long from kunmin to Shangri-la.
Also guilin Kunmin is very expencive with a bus.
i know you did guiling kunmin but also you visited shangri-la. which impressed you most?
i wanna buy the bike in HK because there is a charge on the plane, and the last day i’ll send by china post to Europe.
the fact is that Guilin Kunmin by bus cost 72$ any advice to leverage the price…?
to me could me amazing to go from Hk to the Himalaya feet.
but today and max tomorrow morning i have to sort out if cut the way or do all way

thanks for sharing your though

http://robertbeal.com Rob

It’s difficult to say. Shangri-La feels very different from crossing Guanxi and eastern Yunnan. I did really enjoy cycling through Guanxi though. It’s one of my favourite parts of China.

From what I’ve read there are a few fairly good bike shops in Kunming. You could fly straight there. And either cycle to Shangri-La or cycle from there to Guilin.
You might find 4000RMB not enough, if it includes the bike, as you could easily spend that much just on the bike itself. I don’t really know the bike market in China though, but I’d imagine HK won’t be very cheap.

I spent around 200RMB per day, including the cost of a hotel and all the food I ate!

I’m sure Guilin > Kunming by bus shouldn’t cost that much. I did it (when returning to Shenzhen) for 350RMB. The sleeper buses aren’t very pleasant, and I didn’t sleep much, but they are cheap. I also took a sleeper bus from Guilin to Shenzhen, that was 140RMB! It stopped everywhere picking people up so I didn’t sleep more than an hour or two.

Gheko It

actually i’v been looking for a bike here in Sh and with 1200 rmb we get a touring bike, so let’s say 1500 max. the fact is 200rmb a day is to much for me. i expected hostels’ price (dorm) 30Rmb and meals 10rmb each(Chinese style) am i wrong so fare? guilin is like this for dorms i heard. transportation i’ll sort it out once decided.
Guilin to Kunmin it’s
Hard Seat: $26
Hard Sleeper:$43
Soft Sleeper:$68by train (bikes hope are allowed)
bus no idea, the RMB is quit strong now, so is the same price you got last time.
Do you have a daily rote from guilin to kunmin
and another question, in shangri-la the panorama is it over the Himalaya or is not possible to see the Himalaya?
thanks again Rob

http://robertbeal.com Rob

That sounds reasonable. For me I get charged Westerner prices! Hence 200RMB a day :)

A hotel for me was 100RMB a night. Hostels are much cheaper, around 25-40RMB a night. I couldn’t find hostels in most places apart from the popular ones (Kunming, Guilin, Yangshuo). But given you speak Chinese, you should be able to find cheaper places much more easily and not get charged as much as I did.

I ate a mixture of meals. 4 or 5 10RMB noodle soup or rice meals a day easily (I’m a hungry guy). Remember to include plenty of water. And snacks for when you cycle. Part of my food money would often go on some western snacks (chocolate) which is notably expensive.

Here’s my entry for cycling to Kunming:
http://robertbeal.com/1806/cycling-gdogs-china-part-5-guiyang-kunming

On the trains you have to book your bike onto a luggage carriage. You need to do it in advance, when you buy your ticket. I don’t think they let bikes in the sleeper areas.

From Shangri-La you can definitely see the Himalayan mountain range. I couldn’t see Everest though. My photos are here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bealer/sets/72157625477754068/

Gheko It

Thanks Rob.
Do you Know if in Guilin there are different Bike shops?
http://robertbeal.com Rob

In Guilin, hmmm. I think you will find better bike shops in Kunming. I don’t know Guilin very well, but didn’t see any bike shops for touring bicycles.

Gheko It

booked, tomorrow Guilin! i lost my trip-mate on the way, my budget is a bit higher and got few more days, (kind of fresh air)
5 questions
1) I read that you didn’t enjoy the arrival way to Guiyang, and Kunmin, would you suggest to get a Bus on this 70 Km before, or the hole into the belt were more important for you?
2) How is the temperature in Kunmin? i did’t put any long pens, thought to buy there in case, or i’ll go at decathlon tomorrow.
3) i’m a quit good cycler, 25 y and use to clycle on road bike. my bike is ok not best quality and size! but fine, the 200Km you have done from Sanjiang,to Rongjiang did they were extenuate?
4) is there chance to ride next to somebody, to be in a touristic place in not what i want, but to see somebody and share a small length with him, i would not mind
5)Maps any recommendation which and where to buy?

hope every thing will be great, i wish to do part of shangrila but i think i’ll get a bus there.

Thank you very much for your advices,
hope to offer you pint in the future
cheers Matt

Gheko It

ahh do i need a bike with suspension?!
cheers Rob
http://robertbeal.com Rob

1) In general I found cities (not just in China) awkward to cycle into as they can get very busy. Sometimes there’s not much you can do. You could try getting a bus in from the outskirts. That’s a good idea.

2) When I was there it was cold but I only had Summer cycle wear. I would imagine it is getting much warmer now. Just make sure you have a good selection of cycle clothes for hot and cold weather.

3) By that point I was getting a little tired, so I just cycled through places without really enjoying them. They were nice towns, but after a while I found a lot of Chinese towns start to look very similar.

4) You won’t be in any tourist areas. Even in Yangshuo, which is very touristy, once you cycle for 10mins away from the town you skip all the tourists completely. It is hard to meet people. On my whole trip, China was the only country I didn’t meet another cyclist. It’s worth passing by the tourist areas as often that’s the best place to meet people.

5) I had a GPS, a Garmin Edge 705. Expensive, and it was never very accurate as the Chinese government does something to offset my location. Beyond that I bought some road maps in Shanghai for areas I thought I might get lost. In most cases you should be able to buy maps along the way. It’ll save weight.

You shouldn’t need suspension on your bike. I didn’t. Unless you want to do some off-road stuff, or it’s handy if you come across roads being constructed, which I came across during a previous trip in Yunnan. Just make sure you have fairly fat tyres on your bike.

Gheko It

Hey there
i’m in shangrila at the moment, i started in yangshou went up to baojazai national park, longsheng, and it took me three days and i decided to drop the trip there! was a pain to raid there, that part of china is not for biking, to many tracks on the way, dast from traks all day and nothing to enjoy untill you get at at the point( so med and feel like you want to be a bagpacker!!!
i dont know if i can make it till chengdu or i will go beck to kunmin( i arrived here by bus) and the road is not nice for most of the path.
do you have some advices? i have a week spare, and till now have a bike in china is frustraiting like a pain in the ass!!! i also have the option to go at the post office and send the bike back, i prefer enjoy the way rathar than get KM on my bike computer.
cheers

http://robertbeal.com Rob

Hey, where did you cycle in those areas? I stuck to main roads, like the G321. I didn’t find many tracks, although the roads were busy and sometimes unpleasant. That’s typical of a lot of China though. I’ve only cycled a little bit in Shangri-La. I’ve not cycled away from it. Lijiang is very nice, it may be worth cycling in that direction. I went to Lijiang a couple of years ago, I wasn’t cycling, but saw other European cyclists on the roads. You could also cycle to Dali. I know how you feel with the bike. It’s not easy, sometimes you love it, sometimes you hate it.

Gheko It

i went on the g321 from yangshou till guilin, and was nice surraunding but i couldn’t feel any nature, dasty and polluted, after i got other main roads g322 and s202 the same, i got alternative road at baojazai but still China is a couintry in evolution Constraction plants everywhere), and the only thought was to start a business in cement, seams good money here. i did hiking on tiger, and in the midle a sow a cement river flow, crazy, i understand this behaviuor from them but im gettin every moment more in love with europe Alps, Dolomiti montains ecc.
By the way here there is a guy who told me shangrila chengdu can be done in 6 days taking the bus from kangding to chengdu and enother path before can be skipped. he told me hit the way and i will give yuu more info the next day(cuase a friend of him did it and will be back tomorrow) do you think is it possible? other blogs say 20 days. i’ll decide this morning.
cheers
http://robertbeal.com Rob

Unfortunately you’ll find most of China like that. Not speaking or reading Chinese I couldn’t venture off onto quieter roads. The “S” roads are usually a bit better.

If you hung around Yangshuo, you can cycle around the area and get completely off the main roads. It’s very pleasant cycling. I cycled from Yangshuo to various places like Luizhou (I think it’s called). I did that quite a few times and would head back to Yangshuo just because the cycling was a lot better than anywhere else in China. I wouldn’t know about cycling to Chengdu, I’ve got no idea what the distances are, or even what route you would take, sorry.

Robert Beal